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Quiltville
Custom Quilting
http://www.quiltville.com (Click Here for Printer Friendy .pdf file) ![]() ![]() Finished size: Approx 81"X89" ![]() This is a two block quilt! A
modified puss in the corner block, and an hour glass star block, both
in 8" finished size. You can make this quilt as big or small as you
would like depending on the number of blocks you make. This quilt
uses 45 star blocks and 45 puss blocks. The 90 blocks are set 9 across
by 10 down.
This quilt is perfect to
learn how to use the specialty rulers I love and use so much in
my scrap quilting!
![]() ![]() The easy angle ruler is
available in a 4 .5", 6.5" and 10.5"
sizes. All will work for this quilt, but I find the 6.5" the
easiest
to handle and the most versatile.
Fabric supplies:![]() I started by digging through
my
strip bins for 2.5" strips in neutrals, and in blues!
If you don't already trim your scraps into useable widths, you can cut these pieces from your scraps or from fat-quarters and yardage. ![]() Oscar does his part in selecting fabrics for the "puss" blocks! There are times when I want
to
work on a few blocks at a time....then there are times when I just want
everything cut into stacks so I can feed them mindlessly through the
machine so I don't have to think too hard! This quilt came about during
a stressful period over the past year where I felt my creativity was
stumped. It felt good to just push the pieces through the machine!
Hour Glass & Puss Blocks!I also didn't want to spend TOO MUCH time cutting before I could sew....so I cut in sections, and then sewed, and then cut and then sewed some more. These directions will be broken up the same way so you can sew/cut/sew/cut too! Let's start with the basic
units!
The one unit that both blocks and the border have in common is the
"hour glass" unit. This unit is a square divided on both
diagonals into 4 triangles. These quarter-square triangles all
need to have the
straight of grain on the outside edge of the triangle. There are
convoluted math formulas so that you can cut out individual squares,
and then cut those squares twice on the diagonal to come up with the
right size needed for the hour glass units, but since I was working
with 2.5" strips, I just grabbed my favorite "companion angle" ruler by
EZ. This ruler has all the math built into it so you don't have to
think too hard....just get to the fun stuff! For 1/2 square triangles,
I use the "easy angle" ruler also by EZ. These two rulers work
terrifically together. Besides these two, you will need your regular
rotory ruler. I have a 6.5" X 12.5" that I really like from
Creative Grids.
![]() It took me a bit to think
this
way.....so I'm going to tell you right off! I cut through 2 to 4 layers
of fabric depending on how long my strip is. In the first pic, I
just plopped my companion angle ruler down on the folded strip,
aligning
the bottom of the strip with the 2.5" line on the ruler and made
my first cut. Makes nice triangles! But what about that left end? It
was too small to use for anything and I soon realised I'd have a lot of
"waste" triangles if I didn't think differently. So...the next
strip...I grabbed the easy angle ruler to make the FIRST cut after
squaring off the end of the folded strip. (We are working with 2.5"
strips, so you align the 2.5" triangle mark which will make a 2.5"UN-
finished 1/2 square triangle square...when sewn into a block, the unit
will finish at 2".) I set
these first-cut end triangles off to the side for use in the hourglass
star
blocks as the star points. After the first cut with the easy
angle....use your companion angle to complete the cuts needed for the
hourglass units.
Back to the hourglass triangles! This is where the power
cutting/power sewing comes in. For this quilt you will need 174
completed hour glass units or 696 individual blue hourglass triangles.
Use a variety of blues from light to dark. Sew the triangles right
sides together into pairs. Press seams to one side. Match the pairs
together and sew into 174 completed blue hourglass units. 90 of these
units are for the blocks. The remainder are for the border.
![]() The next step is to cut
2.5" X4.5" neutral rectangles. You will need 180 neutral rectangles as
each of
the 45 puss blocks uses 4 of them.
![]() I power sewed 45 of
these rectangles
first to one side of the hour glass block units, and 45 more to the
opposite side!
![]() I had these all chained
together......and I would lie these out on top of my ironing board,
press the seams towards the light strips, and then snip between the
units. You can see how they trailed on the floor!(this is how I
generally chain press after chain piecing.) I press first, all in a
row, and then cut the treads between the units.
Next step! I rummaged through my bin of 2.5" cut squares to pull out all the blue ones I had in there. You need 180 blue 2.5" squares. ![]() Sew a blue 2.5" square to each end of 90 2.5" X 4.5" rectangles! Press squares TOWARD the light. Now I know if you wanted to
"speed piece" this another way, you could sew two 2.5"blue strips to
either side of a 4.5" neutral strip, press, and then cross cut in to
2.5" sections if you wanted to do this faster. I was doing this
using up scrap squares that I pre-cut and had saved, so I was content
with chain piecing the old fashioned way, one pair at a time. Do what
works for you!
![]() Construct the puss blocks by
sewing the rectangle/squares units to both sides of the partially
completed blocks. Press. Your blocks are half done!
![]() Hour Glass Star Blocks! You've aready got the star
centers made since we did those along with the hourglass puss blocks
and border sections. You are farther along with this quilt than you
realise you are!
The next thing we are going to do is make some flying geese units. There are many ways to make geese units and you are welcome to do them the way you like. I did mine with this quilt using the companion angle and easy angle rulers since I was using pre-cut 2.5" strips. We need 180 flying geese units that measure 2.5" X 4.5" before they are sewn into the block. ![]() Just as with the blue strips,
I folded my neutral strips into halves or fourths. Make a straight cut
on one end, and then position the easy angle ruler at the 2.5" mark so
you can make your first cut to give you the right angle to use with the
companion angle ruler. Trim the rest of the strips this
way, until you have 180 quarter-square triangles for the geese
units. Set the 1/2 square triangles you cut from the beginning of the
strips aside. They will be used in another step.
![]() ![]() See how nicely these fit
together? I like to lay my triangles so the notched part is at
the top and the points in the bottom corners are even. Stitch
blue trianges to the right side of all the geese quarter square
triangles. Press towards the dark and trim points.
![]() Sew the remaining blue 1/2
square triangles onto the opposite side of the geese unit. Press and
trim points.
![]() The next step is to sew a
geese unit to either side of 45 hour glass units. Press seams towards
the hour glass unit.
MORE CUTTING! Now you could
have cut more triangles earlier, but I was in a power sewing mood,
remember? I wanted to sew more than I wanted to cut, so I was cutting
as the need arose.
![]() We now need 180 blue and 180
neutral 2.5" half square triangle squares to be sewn into corner units
so we can complete the star blocks. Remember, even though I say
2.5"....that isn't the cut measurement. That is the measurement on the
ruler. The unfinished measurement of the half square triangle squares
before they are sewn into the block. If you are cutting them with any
other method, they would be 2 7/8". Some of these you have aready
cut. Just cut more to give you the number that you need so that you
have 180 blue/neutral 2.5" unfishined half square triangle
squares. Sew the triangles with right sides together and press
towards the darler fabric. Trim excess points.
![]() Sew a pieced triangle
square to either side of the geese units as sewn. You want the
blue triangle towards the corners of the blocks. Press seams towards
the half square triangle squares.
![]() Sew the goose/square unit to either side of your center block section to complete star blocks! Press. ![]() At this point you should have two piles of blocks, and enough hour glass units left over for the outside border! ![]() This is my quilt center
laid out on the floor before sewing blocks together. When assembling I
like to do what
I call "webbing
the
top" .
Sew the blocks into rows, and sew the rows together to complete the quilt top center. ![]() I finished the quilt by adding a 2.5"
cut inner border of a tan/brown stripe. Then after that I sewed
the hour glass units together and added them to the quilt top.
There are 21 units across, and 23 units down! Machine quilting
was simply done with continuous baptist fans.
![]() ![]() If you make this quilt, I'd love to display a picture of it here to share with other quilters! Just drop me an email, I'd love to hear from you! |