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Quiltville
Custom Quilting
http://www.quiltville.com Basket-Weave Strings!!(Click HERE for printer-friendly version)![]() Finished quilt size approx 67" X 73" ![]() Do
you have this need to
save every scrap with the hopes of using
them up someday? If you are like me you have boxes and bins of saved
strips from leftovers. You can quickly turn these uneven, irregular
strips
(also called strings) into a beautiful quilt! Let's Begin! ![]() This is my bin of strings! :c) What a
mess! But so much potential!
Into this bin I toss odd
shaped pieces from squaring up backings,
tapered ends from trimming up yardage when rotary cutting, anything
that I don't feel like cutting down into uniform strips, and anything
less than 1.5". This is the END of my fabric food chain! The last stop
on the road to being "useable". But strings, as humble as they
are...can be beautiful and so fun and rewarding to work with!For this quilt I wanted to use up the short lengths of strips, and because the strips were uneven (not straight cut along the edge of the strips) some had torn edges, some had curved edges from trimming up an edge of a piece of yardage, etc....I chose to use foundation papers to sew my strips to. This ensures that I have a block that will lay FLAT, while if I were sewing these torn and "not straight" strips one to another without a foundation, I can end up with bumps and hills that don't press out. If you want to make this quilt without foundations, just be sure that you are adding a straight edge strip to another straight edge strip. I some times recycle paper for use in paper foundation piecing. A zillion years ago I had a bunch of order forms printed. The size of the form is half the size of a sheet of printer paper, or 5.5" X 8.5". I had stacks of these! I couldn't just bear to throw them out, so they have been used quite often as foundations for projects like this. You can also use phone book pages....anything! Just be sure that the ink isn't going to transfer onto your iron or your fabric. Test first. Step one! I trimmed my paper foundations using an old rotory cutter I keep just for trimming paper. I cut the foundations 5.5" X 5.5" But you can cut them any size. This just worked with the papers I was trying to use. ![]() The
one thing I didn't like about foundation piecing is the
stop/start/stop/start and all the long threads that would come with
that, so I work on TWO blocks at the same time, using each of them for
the leader/ender
of the other. If you are unfamiliar with what the leader/ender technique is, you can check out the leaders/enders info here! First
off, use a slightly smaller stitch length. Smaller stitches make
the paper easier to remove. I start by taking one light strip and one
dark strip and placing them right sides together somewhere near the
center of the paper foundation. I let the ends hang off the top edge
about 1/2"...start sewing using approximately 1/4" seam allowance and
sew until I reach the end of the paper. When I get about 1/2 way down
the seam, I take my scissors and whack the ends of the strips off about
1/2" beyond the paper edge closest to me. Now, without removing your
pieces from the machine....and without lifting the presser foot, take
another piece of paper and two more strips and sew them to the second
piece of paper with right sides together, just as you did the first.
Sew all the way to the edge, also trimming the ends of the strips
1/2"
beyond the edge of the paper.
![]() Now,
while still leaving your work under the presser foot, reach behind
and snip the threads between the two blocks. I use a pair of little
spring snips that I always keep by my machine. It is easier than trying
to reach behind there with a huge pair of 8" sewing scissors. Find
something that works for you and keep them by your machine. Take this
block you just snipped, press the top strip open, and add another strip
to
the block...you are still sewing a continuous seam to the block you
left under the presser foot. After THIS seam, you will reach behind and
snip off block number 2...press the top strip open, add another strip,
reach behind the machine and snip off the previous block, etc.
Are you getting it now? You are working on two blocks at a time, but
all in one continuous chain so you never have to deal with long thread
tails in your garbage, on your floor, hanging off the edges of your
blocks....this method works great for me and I hope you will like it
too.
I
keep a pressing mat next to my sewing machine with a little travel
iron for pressing as I go. You might want to set something up like this
so you don't have to get up and down so much as you are sewing,
snipping, pressing. A TV tray makes a good pressing table if you don't
have a large enough sewing table to have one near you. Find something
that works for you!
I
sewed the strips light/dark/light/dark/light/dark across my blocks,
but you can do them anyway you want.
When
you fill up a block, start with a new paper as your next block and
just keep working on 2 blocks at a time. This saves you from having to
get up and down with a long string of chained blocks back and forth to
the ironing board.
![]() I
would sew blocks until I had a stack of about 10 or 12, and then to
give myself a break from the machine I'd get up, go to the cutting
table and square them up. I like to square them up 1/4" beyond the edge
of the paper by putting the 1/4" line on the ruler on the edge of the
paper. Trim all four sides on each block. This is a good time to remove
the paper, and since you are only doing 10 or 12 blocks at a time, it
doesn't take long. Better to take it out now than to wait until the
whole quilt top is done!
![]() Here
is a pic of 4 trimmed blocks with papers removed! You will see the
bottom left block has an outside strip of 3 fabrics together. This was
a strip I had trimmed off of something else I was strip-piecing, and I
used it in this
block! You can take strips that are too short for the length of the
block, sew them together end to end, and use pieced strips in with your
longer strips for more variety. I think this adds alot of interest to
the quilt!
I
made this quilt with 98 string blocks. I know that sounds like alot,
but they go very fast! Especially if you work on them in groups of 10
to 12 at a time.
To
set the quilt, you will need to lay out the blocks on the diagonal
or "on point".
There will be 8 rows down of 7 blocks across with the strings pointing
one direction, then the alternate blocks (7 rows of 6 blocks across)
will point the other direction. Here is a closer picture to give you an
idea:
![]() To
set this quilt together you will need to cut setting triangles for
the sides and the corners. These side triangles need to have the
straight grain of the fabric along the outside edge of the quilt so
they need to be cut a certain way.
![]() Here is the math formula for finding out the sizes of triangles you will need for a quilt that is set "block to block" WITHOUT sashings:
Example#2: Note: Round up to the nearest dimension on the ruler. Add 1-1/4" to that number check out my "Putting It On Point" Page! Corner
triangles: Cut two squares 4 7/8" square, and cut through them
on the diagonal from corner to corner once giving you 4 corner
triangles. (Two from each square)
Side
triangles: Cut seven 9 1/4" squares. Cut these on the diagonal
twice with an X giving you 4 triangles from each square.
*NOTE*
the math for arriving at this triangle size has you cutting 9
1/8" squares. I rounded it up to 9 1/4" because I like to square up the
quilt top after piecing. The blocks will float inside the top a bit
when pieced with bigger triangles, but I trim it down after the top is
together.
Lay
out the triangles and corners with your blocks. Begin sewing the
quilt into rows starting at one corner. Your first row will have one
corner block, two large setting "wing" triangles, and the corner
triangle. Your second row will have three blocks, two wing
triangles...etc. Each row will get larger as you get to the center of
the quilt. I like two assemble the quilt rows together as I go until
there are two halves of the top.....and then sew the two halves
together in one long seam.
After
the top is
together, use your ruler and rotory cutter to
trim the edge of the quilt 1/4" away from the corners of the blocks at
the quilt top edge. This gets rid of all the dog ears from sewing the
rows together too.
![]() Here is a closer shot of what I used for the borders....I cut the inner border at 2" wide so it finishes at 1.5". The outer border is cut 5". ![]() This is pic outsdie hanging off my deck...I think the color is more true, and you can see a bit of the quilting :c) Quilting closer up: ![]() ![]() If you make this quilt, I'd love to display a picture of it here to share with other quilters! Just drop me an email, I'd love to hear from you!
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